A Pound of Flesh, Lightly Sauteed.

A tour bus packed with well-to-do, mostly older, passengers winds its way through the streets of a non-descript tourist town, down the main drag towards its destination. The bus pulls to a stop in front of a down-on-its-luck burger joint plastered with yellow signs warning customers away. The theme park Wonder Warf is just steps away, but these tourists are here for the burger bar. And they’re here because of the signs.
            The health department signs covering Bob’s Burgers’ windows are lettered, unnecessarily. The graphic — a human form pressed between the two halves of a hamburger bun — is perfectly succinct. Although this scene is lifted from Fox’s new animated series Bob’s Burgers, given the resurgence of gastro-cliques meeting to eat the nasty bits of exotic game, it’s hard not to imagine Bob’s Burger garnering a small but devoted following.
In the interest of full disclosure: I would have been on that bus. If only it were that easy. The problems facing a would-be modern cannibal are two fold. Firstly, eating one’s peers is deeply anti-social. Given our historic propensity to eat one another, making cannibalism taboo seems a sensible base on which to build a large civilization. Secondly, it’s hard to find a good butcher.
Recent evidence published by PLoSONE.org, an online peer-reviewed science journal, shows that butchering a human corpse for consumption was common amongst the ancient Britons. In fact, it turns out they were quite adept at the practice. Although the art is largely lost today, like everything else, how-to-guides can be found on line. Bob Arson, of The Church of Euthanasia, warns that human butchery requires both ample space and time
Even if you decide to clean and process the corpse yourself, there is still the problem of supply. As a food geek (I loath the term foodie), I am obsessed with the freshness and origins of my ingredients, so necro-cannibalism (consuming the flesh of the already deceased) is out. Homicidal anthropophagy, the murderous option, isn’t much of a second choice, given the social stigma attached to hunting and eating people. Even if your livestock consents to being eaten, this defense will be lost on the courts, or at least it was for convicted German cannibal Armin Meiwes.  
            Advancements in medical science suggest that growing human organs for transplant is on the near horizon. However the possibility of ethically (and morally, for that matter) sourced human meat suffered a blow this past February. Vladimir Mironov — the scientist on the cutting-edge of biofabrication (literally the manufacturing of life) and champion of in-vitro feed animal flesh production as a solution to a growing food crisis — was suspended from his Medical University of South Carolina lab, for reasons unrelated to his research.
            The Medical University of South Carolina vows to continue the work being done at their lab.  Would-be cannibals can only hope that Mirinov’s replacement will share the same desire to both heal and feed the world, since the work being done at the MUSC lab represents our best hope at satisfing our innate, murderous hunger. Until then, if you notice an unusual number of people going missing in your neighbourhood, look for a well-fed person, with a murderous glint his eye.    

Beer and Bread - Beating the winter blahs

I am not a fan of winter.  In fact, I have spent considerable effort and substantial amounts cash to avoid as much cold weather as possible.  Frankly, the only thing that get me though our long Canadian winters is the great selection of dark, flavourful winter beers offered by Ontario craft brewers. 
  New comer, Lake of Bays Brewing Company, offers a Mocha Porter -- easily one of my favourites from this year's seasonal selection.  Not as bitter as many porters, and not as boozy as a typical winter beer, this Mocha Porter has a wonderfully balanced flavour, with subtle notes of the cocoa and coffee used in the brewing process.  Lake of Bay Mocha Porter is sold in 750ml bottles at L.C.B.O outlets and their company store.  The large bottle (double the standard bottle size) means there is still enough left to quench your thirst after mixing this dough.


No Knead Lake of Bays Mocha Porter Bread
Yield: 3 loaves (565g pre-cooked weight)
Prep Time: 4 1/4 hrs. (including4 hrs. proofing time)
Cooking Time: 35 - 40 mins.
Special Equipment:  Pizza stone or heavy bottomed pot with lid; parchment paper, 2" deep bownie pan, spray bottle

950g A/P flour (aprox. 6 1/4 cups)
2 Tbsp salt
1 1/2Tbsp dry active yeast
375ml Lake Of Bays Mocha Porter (check availablity at L.C.B.O.) *Please see note at bottom*
375ml water, (100 - 110ºF)
Additional flour for dusting
Cold water in spray bottle
Corn meal (to dust pizza stone) 

  In a large bowl combine A/P flour and salt.  Add yeast.  Add beer and combine using wooden spoon or heavy-duty silicon spatula.  Add hot water, and mix to form homogeneous dough (use hands if dough becomes too stiff to mix with spoon).
  Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free spot for 2 hours or until doubled in size (the heat from a pilot light, or, from light bulb in electric oven is perfect).  When dough has risen, punch the dough to deflate; divide into 3 equal portions (aprox. 565g per loaf).
  At this point the dough is ready to bake, but will improve in flavour if left to retard in the refrigerator.  The dough will stay viable for about 10 days if covered and left in the fridge.  You can also freeze this dough; thaw and bake using the method given below.

  Dust hands and work surface liberally with flour to prevent the dough from sticking.  Form one portion of dough into a boule by pinching and twisting the bottom of the dough, then tuck the resulting tail under the loaf.  Cover and let rest for 60 - 90 minutes.
  The bread can be baked in two different ways, either using a pizza stone or using a heavy bottomed pot with a lid (this method also requires parchment paper). 
Either:
--Pizza Stone Baking Method:
  Place one oven rack at the lowest setting, and a second rack at the highest setting.  Fill square pan with warm water and place on the top rack; place pizza stone on lower rack.  Pre-heat oven to 450ºF for 30 minutes.
  When the oven is hot spay the top of the boule with cold water and cut an "X" or checker board with a serrated knife.  Spraying the loaf with water serves two purposes, first it allows the blade to cut the top of the dough without sticking; secondly, it the spray of cold water causes a burst of steam when the loaf enters the oven.  This burst of steam gives the boule it's crisp, crunchy crust.
  There are 2 ways to prevent the dough from sticking to the stone.  Personally I place my dough on parchment paper so that I can carry it to the oven more easily, if you don't have parchment paper you can dust the stone with coarse corn meal right before setting down the loaf.  Place the dough on hot stone.  Bake for 30 - 40 minutes, till crust is golden brown, and the bread sounds hollow when tapped.  Most ovens have hot-spots I turn my loaves after 15 minutes.
Or:
--Covered Pot Method:
  Place oven rack in its lowest position.  Place heavy bottomed pot on rack and set oven to 450ºF.  Pre-heat oven and pot for 30 minutes.
  Place dough on parchment paper.  Spray top of the dough with cold water and make a single cut down the centre of the loaf.  When oven is hot, lower loaf on parchment paper into hot pot (carefully!) and cover.  Reduce heat to 425ºF and bake, covered, for 20 minutes.  After 20 minutes, remove lid and bake for another 10 to 20 minutes to brown the crust.  The bread is ready when the crust is a nice golden colour, and sounds hollow when tapped.

  A loaf coming out of the oven should "sing" -- as the crust hits the cooler air outside the oven it starts to crackle and pop audibly.  Place the loaf on a wire cooling rack and let stand as long as you can stand the smell of fresh baked bread.  
  Slather warm bread with butter, or a nice soft and salty brie (try Château de Bourgogne or Brillat-Savarin from France, or from closer to home, try Comfort Cream, Soeur Angele, or Saînt Honoré from Canada).

*Notes about the beer.  Lake of Bays seems to be getting their products into more and more L.C.B.O.s.  If the Mocha Porter in not available near you I suggest the widely available Young's Double Chocolate Stout, but any porter or stout will do (although I would only suggest using Guinness as a last resort).
  I am a big fan of Lake of Bays Mocha Porter.  I can't help but pour myself some while making this bread, which is why this recipe only calls for half the bottle.  If you are not a fan, this recipe is easily doubled, and the loaves freeze well.  Many of the other beers that can be used a substitutes are available in 500ml bottles or cans.  If you use a full 500ml can or bottle subtract the additional beer from the hot water, so that there is still 750ml of liquid added to the dough.

A Magyar Curse - A Chicken Paprikash Recipe Review

   I learned a lot from my best friend and next door neighbour’s Hungarian grandmother. As a child I could tell you to “shove your mother’s religion up a horse’s ass” in perfect Magyar. Later in life, I learned to smoke a Rothman’s Blue with out hocking up a lung. But of all the things Grandma Julie taught me, an appreciation of Hungarian food is something that I somehow missed.

   To be honest I have no memory of ever even trying Hungarian food. So when I was given the task of reviewing a chicken paprikash recipe for my George Brown food writing class, I must say I was excited.

   Traditionally chicken paprikash would be served with spaetzle (imagine a cross between an egg noodle and gnocchi), and this recipe included a side bar on making spaetzle for those seeking an “authentic” experience. I opted for egg noodles from a bag for two reasons. Firstly, that’s how Grandma Julie served her paprikash; secondly, the last time I tried making spaetzle I ended up with batter dripping from my elbow and a steaming pot of wallpaper paste. 

   I would have preferred this dish over potatoes, and while potatoes are given as an optional ingredient, no instructions are provided to tell the cook when, where or how much potato should be added. This chicken paprikash recipe is also let down by a few other omissions. Most notably temperatures and an over all cooking time are lacking — I rarely caramelise onions and had forgotten how long the process can take, as a result dinner was served much later than anticipated. 

   Overall the dish turned out well. The chicken was juicy, tender and cooked to a turn. The gravy was rich and pungent with spice, with smoky undertones. I would have made sauce a little hotter, by substituting one of the two tablespoons of smoked paprika for the hot variety, however none of my fellow diners agreed with me, and the recipe doesn’t specify whether to use hot or sweet smoked paprika. 

   I don’t think I would make this dish again. Frankly if I am going to take the time to caramelise onions there are other things I would rather make, but that means I am going to have to duck some phone calls; my neighbour is already calling for seconds.


***I have not included the recipe here because it is secondary to the exercise, and also out of a sense of fairness to the author, as the recipe is clearly a working draft.***

Dirty Yellow Lies

   No one should be forced to confront their own hypocrisy. Not this way.  Not surrounded by a pile of yellow and orange balls of wax paper that once wrapped willful ignorance. And yet here I am, surrounded by grease stained taco wrappers that silently scream “Je tʼaccuse.” Each crumpled ball tells a dirty lie, and an even dirtier truth.

   Personally I blame Amanda Obney for this unpleasant journey of self-discovery. On January 19th, the Alabama law firm of Beasley, Allen, Crow, Methvin, Portis and Miles filed a lawsuit on Amandaʼs behalf in a California U.S. District Court against the Taco Bell Corporation.  According to the complaint, Taco Bellʼs beef tacos not only fail to meet the standards set for ground beef, but even the 40% fresh beef standard set by the USDA to qualify simply as "meat."

   While the allegations have been greeted publicly with tongue-in-cheek shock, the California lawsuit has deep personal implications. Implications that go much deeper than the possible health consequences of eating a substance that may be more grain and silicon dioxide (more commonly known as sand) than meat. Regardless of whether the taco filling is 100% beef or if it is just “meat adjacent” as Stephen Colbert suggested, this lawsuit exposes a personal ethical blind spot.

   Working in a small gourmet food shop, selling locally produced foodstuffs, I crafted a food narrative – not just about the products I sold, but about myself as a lover of raw milk bries and truffles. Herein lies the ethical dilemma. Embarrassing as it is to admit publicly, tacos, and more specifically Taco Bell tacos are deeply entwined in my culinary identity – at the age of 9 I taught myself how to make tacos, and as I progressed dreamed of working Taco Bell developing recipes. And this reality is at stark odds with the story of the locavore I have built for myself.

   According to food ethicist and director of the Centre for Ethics and Law in Copenhagen, Christian Coff, we connect to food ethically through the narrative of its production. Increasingly the story of our food is a carefully constructed work of fiction, packaged as fact. Fast food chainsʼ narrative focuses not on the food as a product but rather the brand as a life style, as a trusted childhood friend.

   Since Taco Bell opened its first Ontario location in 1981 I have had trouble passing a one without making “run for the border,” as an early Taco Bell advertising slogan urged. And while my soft taco may speak more of test tubes and high density feed lots, than cattle grazing in a rural idyll, I for one will still “think outside the bun.”